A blue ribbon sushi deal
Omakase Room by Shin (Midtown)
RESTAURANTS • Kodawari
Welcome back to Kodawari, a FOUND feature in which we profile sushi counters practicing kodawari — the uncompromising, relentless pursuit of perfection.
The Skinny: At the new Omakase Room by Shin in Midtown, 15-year Blue Ribbon Sushi vet Shin Yamaoka offers a very seasonal, traditional omakase that spans 14 courses. At $175 per, it’s one of the best sushi deals in town.
The Experience: By way of design, not much (if anything) has changed in the transition from Kaiseki Room by Yamada (which previously occupied the space). The intimate 600-square-foot dining room is wrapped in blonde wood that curves upward, enveloping diners into a serene cocoon, a stark contrast to W. 53rd St. outside.
House Manners: Gregarious chef Shin is ready to chat about everything from seasonal geoduck clams to his take on soft and spongy tamago. The rules for high-end omakases that are increasingly becoming the standard — no perfume, no cell phone calls, etc. — are more relaxed here, but honoring these suggestions is always appreciated.
Sushi Style: This pared-down omakase follows the Japanese ideal of minimalism, highlighting seasonal Japanese seafood via simple, umami-rich preparations. Shin seasons his rice with a red vinegar made from sake lees for a rich complement to fish from madai to Hokkaido uni.
The Progression: Two seasonal appetizers — like a summertime grilled eel with buckwheat and a delicate geoduck clam chawanmushi — kick off this medium-length omakase, which quickly moves straight into kampachi nigiri. Chef serves six pieces of nigiri, including buttery Ora King salmon and a tuna block of akami, chutoro, and a toro hand roll. A warm take on nigiri features grilled sea eel accented with a few drops of a thick salty-sweet soy sauce and concludes with an uni hand roll before moving into a geoduck clam miso soup and chef’s signature cloud-like tamago.
The Takeaway: A welcome entrant in the high-end counter scene, with a very appealing quality-to-price-point ratio. –Kat Odell
→ Omakase Room by Shin (Midtown) • 145 W 53rd St • Tues-Sat seatings at 530p and 8p • $175 per • Reserve.