Bright light, dark wood, can’t lose

Willa (Millerton, NY)

GETAWAYS • Upstate

At first glance, Willa in Millerton, NY, looks ordinary, with bland suburban interiors that include an array of fake florals hanging above a long dark wood bar and a scattering of hightop tables in the back. The food, however, is anything but ordinary. Ingredient combinations are as brave as they are assembled to perfection.

Chef Daniel…