RESTAURANTS • First Person
Midway through our entrees at La Boca, the lights dimmed to “romantic.” Several bites later, they were dialed all the way up to “business meeting.” And then, our lamb chops nearly clean, the bulbs flickered back where they’d started — “weeknight at sprawling hotel restaurant.”
On this early Wednesday evening, we’d ventured to Chelsea’s western edge, inside the new Faena hotel at One High Line, to see if there was heat at Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann’s freshly opened, much-anticipated first NYC restaurant.