RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Italian-American classics are reimagined in a throwback space at the recently revived Jr & Son in Williamsburg.
The Vibe: Dimly lit and comfortingly nostalgic. The location was once a boxing hangout, an Italian social club, and (from the ’70s onward) a dusty Williamsburg dive until it closed during the pandemic. Now, the interiors have been gently restored to pay homage to all those past iterations. In fact, much of the decor remains as it was in the dive bar days — framed photos of famous boxers and old regulars, vintage Mets memorabilia, and posters from Columbus Day celebrations dot the walls. The checkered floors, unearthed during the renovation, are original. Deep, maroon leather booths opposite the bar line the narrow space, opening up to more seating in the back.
The Food: Chef Patricia Vega (of Thai Diner) and pastry chef Amanda Perdomo (of Kellogg's Diner) creatively riff on classics. The vegan bread course offers fluffy, castelvetrano-laced focaccia and bouncy, herb-dusted Parker house rolls, both with plant-based butter and neither the worse for it. Another interesting twist: creamy stracciatella is topped with bottarga and served with a savory black olive caramel. Arancini salad that’s comprised of herbs and small globes of fried rice and mozzarella serves as a bright-ish contrast to more hearty mains, like chicken parm with Calabrian chili. Perdomo’s deft rainbow cookie cake slice is also sneakily vegan, swapping the traditional almond for a coconut base to light and balanced effect.
The Drink: The cocktail menu is tight, consisting of six spins on classic drinks. The Johnny Dangerously (amari, lime, cane sugar) is a refreshing low-ABV counterpart to more spirit-forward options like the House Martini, served with manzanilla in place of vermouth. Italian wines by the glass and beer from Brooklyn-based breweries are also available. Jr & Son is open late — full dinner until 11p (drinks until midnight) — in hopes of becoming a place for industry regulars to grab a post-shift drink/bite.
The Verdict: A Williamsburg red sauce spot that holds onto just enough of its heritage without holding itself back from offering diners something compelling and new. –Caitlin Pangares
→ Jr & Son (Williamsburg) • 575 Lorimer St • Wed-Sun 6p-12a • Reserve.