Fishing for corn cob gelato in a sea of sameness

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Live in New York City long enough, and eventually every place is taking the place of something that was there before. Something, more likely than not, that someone — perhaps you — even loved. 

I didn’t love Cafe Loup, the classic, threadbare bar/restaurant on West 13th Street, as much as some of my friends did. But I always like…