GETAWAYS • Upstate
The DINER sign is lighting up Warren Street once again with last weekend’s opening of The Hudson Diner. The new spot is the brainchild of Brent Young (of The Meat Hook) and Ashley Berman (of Mel The Bakery), who put some love back into the train car restaurant that was once Grazin’ Diner.
It’s the best type of diner, in that it doesn’t subvert expectations. The food is greasy and fried, with baskets of chicken fingers, disco fries, and steaming mozzarella sticks for appetizers. There’s also a delightfully subtle whitefish dip, served with plastic-wrapped Lance Saltines and pickled jalapeñoes. The salads are generous, like a crispy wedge loaded with blue cheese that could feed at least two. For mains, there’s a half chicken, chopped steak, and spaghetti pie. Pair any of those classics with a side of green peas and onion, and it’s your ’90s New Jersey childhood on a plate.
Cocktails are made by experienced bartenders, but aren’t overwrought. The list includes a goblet-sized margarita with a salty rim and a piña colada that resembles the one at Long Island Bar (high compliments), all at diner-esque prices. There are rotating daily desserts made by Berman, like a chocolate sheet cake, as well as an always available Neapolitan sundae.
It’s exactly what the area’s been missing. Right now they’re only doing dinner service, but they intend to be open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, seven days a week, just as it should be. –Sylvie Florman
→ Hudson Diner (Hudson) • 717 Warren St • Wed-Sun 5-10p • Walk-ins only.