Kaiseki unbuttoned
Soba Ulala (Soho)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Chef Hirohisa Hayashi has recast his acclaimed Soho kaiseki restaurant Hirohisa into Soba Ulala, a place that honors Hirohisa’s same principles of pristine hyperseasonal ingredients, but in a more casual à la carte format, and anchored by housemade soba. (Hirohisa will move into a new home later this year.