FOUND NY

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Sleeper Vietnamese, Grand Army Bar, Per Se price hike, the perfect spring drink, best Easter Sunday reservations, Audio-Technica record player, MORE

Apr 01, 2025
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RESTAURANTS • First Person

House of joy

The upside of spending four and a half (miserable) years at a small Boston college was the four and half (delicious) years spent slurping pho in the city’s exemplary Vietnamese restaurants. So I was disappointed when I returned to my Vietnam-restaurant-deficient hometown of New York and had to reduce my cravings to the occasional pho dac biet on Baxter Street.

But 20 years later, NYC is getting the Vietnamese cuisine it deserves, fueled mostly by young Vietnamese-American chefs, focusing on the freshness of the herbs and greens and delicacy of the spices, deploying protein as a garnish rather than a main, and emphasizing the hyper-regionality of the country’s dishes. Everyone is fighting for tables right now at dazzling Viet-French-bistro Ha’s Snack Bar, but uptown, there’s a sleeper Vietnamese spot a limestone’s throw from the Cathedral of St. John the Divine, where you won’t have to wait three hours for a seat.

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