RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Beloved Bushwick pizzeria Ops (est. 2016) opened an East Village outpost over the summer, bringing its wood-fired sourdough pies and low-intervention wines to Manhattan.
The Vibe: Warm, casual, and lively, with a great soundtrack by co-owner Mike Fadem. The noise level is less ideal for soft-spoken diners, but perfect for a relaxed date night or catch-up with friends. The space channels a modern trattoria vibe, with wood-panelled booths, a stainless steel bar, vintage lighting, and eclectic art.
The Food: The classic Ops pizzas are Neapolitan-inspired but rooted in New York, with playful names like the Cicero, topped with “many onions,” and the Juno, featuring broccoli rabe, provola, and potatoes. A few thin-crust, St. Louis-style pies are new to the lineup and exclusive to this location. Starters like the crisp fritto misto with Basque peppers, anchovy aioli, and lemon are standouts, and the supplì are reliably delicious. Salads are market-fresh and generously sized. As for dessert, all you need to know is that there’s a soft serve machine.
The Drinks: The wine list is funky, far-reaching, and full of small-producer gems. The staff will happily chat about their favorite bottles and the best pizza-and-wine pairings. There’s also a succinct selection of beer and cocktails, like the bourbon-based Himrod Street, named for the Bushwick location.
The Verdict: It’s too early to tell if the East Village spot will capture the same laid-back, communal spirit of the Bushwick location, but the Ops migration is worth celebrating either way. –Phoebe Fry
→ Ops (East Village) • 172 2nd Ave • Sun-Thu 5-11p, Fri-Sat 5p-12a • Reserve.