Market haul
TELLY JUSTICE • HAGS
WORK • Friday Routine
TELLY JUSTICE • executive chef & co-owner • HAGS
Neighborhood you work in: East Village
Neighborhood you live in: Lower East Side
It’s Friday afternoon, how are you rolling into the weekend?
First things first, every day once I’m up and out of the apartment, I head immediately to Davelle on Suffolk St. for a black iced coffee. Doesn’t matter what season it is, it could be snowing out, I’ve got to have an iced coffee before I even look at my phone.
Friday is a big farmer’s market day for me. I head to the Union Square Greenmarket on foot around 10a with my long list of produce that I’ll need to process for weekend dinner service and brunch on Sunday. I love this walk from the LES to Union Square. I see many of the same people everyday on this little commute, and it makes me feel closer, more intimate with the neighborhood.
Once I arrive at the market, I hit up Norwich Meadow Farms, Lani’s Farm, and Samascott for apples. This is one of my favorite weekly rituals. Most Fridays I run into other chefs and good friends. Fidel Caballero, chef of Corima, shows up and chats about what’s going on with his café, Vato. We kiki and size up each other’s market haul and talk about seasonal menu changes. But I can’t linger: I have to be at HAGS by 11a to unlock the doors, lay down the floor mats, add trash bags to the slim jims, and turn on the dishwasher.
The morning prep staff starts pouring in and we divvy up the produce, assigning tasks and contemplating the day’s menu. Someone selects music, and today it’s Sade. Vibes feel good and we’ve got a busy service ahead of us, so we get to work.
Any restaurant plans?
The “weekend” for me is Monday and Tuesday, classic hospitality worker schedule. Monday and Tuesday, I’m spending time around Brooklyn catching up with friends and relaxing a bit. I’ll have to slide by The Commodore for a piña colada or two while the weather is still decent enough to enjoy the patio. Then I am meeting some folks at the Fish Cheeks there in Williamsburg. We’re going to order all of the spiciest things on the menu! Later in the weekend: I’m excited to head over to Bunna Cafe, where Camille, our friend Tina, and I will be ordering the feast for three.
Any weekend getaways?
I love a train ride, so it’s a fun time for me to head over to Penn Station and hop on the Amtrak to Philly. I grew up around the Philly area so I get my nostalgia kicks in while I’m down there. It’s not a complete trip in my opinion if I don’t stop at Reading Terminal Market, Philly AIDS Thrift, Giovanni’s Room, and the Franklin Fountain. If I’m desperate for a cheesesteak, I’m going to Ishkabibble’s on South St. But there are so many incredible restaurants, the food scene is phenomenal. Top of my list are Mawn, Roxanne, Friday Saturday Sunday, My Loup, and Post Haste.
What was your last great vacation?
Montreal. I like to rent a car and drive there. That ride through the mountains, especially in autumn when the leaves have just changed color — it’s magical. Montreal is such a fun place. There are fantastic museums, beautiful hikes, not to mention cheap and perfect poutine everywhere you go. For a great meal, my favorites are Gia and Salle Climatisée. But if you’re looking for something more classic, I have so much love for Au Pied de Cochon and Joe Beef too. If you happen to eat a bagel while you’re there, let me know your thoughts. I don’t want to come off as a Montreal bagel hater, but I feel like I’m missing something. Or maybe a New York bagel is simply unbeatable, who knows?
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
I just got a Mill home composting receptacle. It’s not cheap, but this thing is magical. You can throw almost any food scrap in there and within hours it’s transformed into healthy, gorgeous, aromatic dirt. We use it at the restaurant and it’s totally changed my relationship to composting. Whenever I bring it up to people in conversation, inevitably they’ll ask me if it’s truly worth the price. The answer is yes. Hard yes.
What store or service do you always recommend?
SOS Chef! Run, don’t walk. It’s a quaint and quirky spice shop just south of Tompkins Square on Avenue B in the East Village. If you want your food to taste like there’s a serious chef in the kitchen, then this store is a must for you. I buy almost all of our spices, oils, vinegars, ferments, and culinary chemicals there. Atef, the owner, is chic and fun and incredibly passionate about food. You will come away feeling inspired and excited to cook. Tell her Telly from HAGS sent you!
Where are you donating your time or money?
We love to send support whenever possible to the good people at Ali Forney Center. We believe the work they are doing is incredibly important. Please consider looking them up and getting involved if you can!