Naturally yours

Plus de Vin (East Williamsburg)

BARS • First Round

The opening of a new natural wine bar outfitted in the pale wood aesthetic likely wouldn’t cause a ripple in Fort Greene or Clinton Hill. But on an upper stretch of Graham Ave. in East Williamsburg, it’s something of a happening. Plus de Vin, which opened last month in the space formerly occupied by shuttered neighborhood restaurant Pheasant, is the work of a trio of pedigreed industry vets: husband and wife Carenn Mackinnon (previously of Estela and Frenchette) and Max Mackinnon (current chef and partner at Libertine), along with Chad Carey, who runs a San Antonio restaurant group.

I dropped by one night earlier this week to find a ‘Snacks Menu’ about a dozen items in length hanging on the wall by the front register. Order there, then find a seat inside near the wall of smartly selected natural wine bottles or, as we did, in the roofed-in back garden. The food arrived quickly, starting with an excellent slice of country paté, served with spicy mustard and cornichons, and a fun plate of parm, salami, piparras peppers, and crunchy crackers. Then, peekytoe crab toast with celery and pork sausage, a less-serious little sister of sorts to Libertine’s justly famous saucisse purée. Here, instead of pureed potatoes, the sausage link sits atop a pile of fries. It’s a casual delight, a phrase that also nicely sums up Plus de Vin itself. –Lockhart Steele

→ Plus de Vin (East Williamsburg) • 445 Graham Ave • Mon-Fri 4p-, Sat-Sun 2p-.