New terroir
Lai Rai (Chinatown)
BARS • First Round
Amid the mildly chaotic sidewalk seating of its wildly popular neighbor (and sibling restaurant) Mắm, it’s easy to miss Lai Rai. The Chinatown wine-and-snack bar is so unassuming, I had to peek through various doorways on the block until I found a blond wood interior with a large patinaed mirror that made the space look twice its size.…
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