On point

Arthur (Greenpoint)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: In April, chef Kevin Finch (formerly of Atelier Crenn in SF) recast Greenpoint’s Fulgurances into Arthur. Finch has preserved some of the space’s Parisian wine bar DNA and seasonal small-plate cooking, while shifting to a more approachable à la carte menu format that’s ambitious enough to make for an exciting night out, but relaxed enough for repeat dining.

The Vibe: The restaurant’s bones remain largely unchanged from its Fulgurances days: a long, narrow shoebox of a dining room anchored by an open kitchen counter running nearly the length of one wall, with a scattering of tables behind it. New high-backed leather bar stools, reupholstered mid-century-inspired wood chairs, and vintage lighting lend a warmer, lived-in feel. On a recent evening, every seat was occupied.

The Food: The hallmarks of wine-friendly cooking are still very much present, albeit in dishes that feel a bit heartier and more substantial. Finch cooks with a global touch. A small bowl of sweet-and-sour málà peanuts arrives finished with fresh lime zest, while a refreshing kohlrabi salad pairs crisp batons of the vegetable with parsley, dill, mint, toasted hazelnuts, and a vibrant herb-packed fish sauce dressing made from juiced parsley, cilantro, chives, and mint.

There’s a perfectly flaky butter pastry shell loaded with mushroom duxelles, poached asparagus, roasted maitakes, and glazed morels, all blanketed in a creamy Brillat-Savarin cheese sauce. But the standout is the brioche à tête. Made with Catskills-sourced grains and pulled from the oven moments before serving, the buttery loaf arrives hot and steaming alongside a pat of salted house-cultured butter. It’s a contender for one of New York City’s best bread service debuts of the year, perhaps reason enough to return.

Also excellent is the chicken, which hides a mousse made from the thigh, beneath crackling crisp skin. It’s served over dirty crispy rice, studded with offal and confit leg meat, alongside porcini mushrooms and mustard greens. The amazake-cured steak is also a hit, sliced for sharing and paired with beef-fat-cooked pea leaves and lovage, plus a savory XO-style sauce built from green garlic, sherry vinegar, and tuna bloodline. For dessert, madeleines are baked to order and served warm atop crème anglaise and finished with a snowfall of powdered sugar.

The Drinks: The tightly edited wine list, which prioritizes European regions and small, low-intervention producers, contains some gems. Ulysse Collin Les Maillons (a personal favorite for a rich, oxidative, mousse-y Champagne) is sold below retail at $350. As for cocktails, the concise menu of just three drinks features New York-made spirits and riffs on classics, including a clever Plugra-butter-fat-washed gin “brioche martini” made with barley tea and Castelvetrano olives, alongside a seasonal strawberry negroni.

The Verdict: Finch has wisely retained much of what worked at Fulgurances — the bistro vibe, seasonal cooking, fair prices, and a cheffy touch — while creating a restaurant with a clearer identity and broader appeal. –Kat Odell

→ Arthur (Greenpoint) • 132 Franklin St • Tue-Sat 5-11p • Reserve.