Oysters and pearls

Kinjo (Dumbo)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

It’s almost impossible at this point to write about a new New York City omakase in a way that doesn’t flatten its qualities into a few binaries: Is it painfully expensive, or “if you have to ask” expensive? Is it a self-serious three hours wordlessly conducted with all the gravitas of a eunuchs’ monastery, or does the chef actu…