Prodigal Son Summer

Mission Chinese Food @ Cha Kee, Chinatown

RESTAURANTS • First Person

If a pop-up counts as a return, maybe the third time's the charm for Mission Chinese Food. 

Backstory: A decade ago, Danny Bowien's San Francisco import took Orchard Street by storm, with four-hour waitlists, kegs of beer for the waiting throngs, critical acclaim, and regular visits from the likes of Anthony Bourdain and Ferran …