Queens gambit
RESTAURANTS • First Person
The bartender at Ridgewood’s low-key great cocktail bar, Sundown, leaned over as he sized us up on a recent Saturday night: “Rolo’s?”
A reasonable guess. Opened during the pandemic, Rolo’s has blossomed into one of the most exuberant places to dine anywhere in the city. The menu, by three Gramercy Tavern alums, is built around …
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