Rare meat

Togyushi (Midtown)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Three cedar trays displaying perfectly portioned medallions of wagyu tenderloin, striploin, and rump sat on the pass as I took my seat along Togyushi’s U-shape counter. The restaurant, which opened last month on West 37th Street near 6th Avenue, spotlights Zao wagyu, sourced from its eponymous mountain region around two hours north of Tokyo, where cattle are prized for their balanced marbling and naturally sweet, clean flavor. Togyushi is the only restaurant outside of Japan that offers this beef.