Southern charm

Marlow East (Upper East Side)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Opened late spring in a moody bi-level space on the corner of 73rd and Lexington, Marlow East — a sibling restaurant to the Upper West Side’s Marlow — is a buzzy and welcoming home to the Southern and Appalachian flavors of chef Braxton Decker, formerly of Fandi Mata and Musket Room.

The Vibe: On the ground floor of the two-level space, a sleek marble bar is flanked by floor-to-ceiling windows, illuminated by optimally dimmed lighting fixtures. A string of vintage glass tiles and custom wallpaper lead to an inviting staircase, where dining with a bird’s-eye view of the Upper East Side awaits.

The Food & Drink: My partner and I started with martinis, one classic expression prepared extra dry with gin, and another from the specialty menu. Marlow’s Dirty Pimento comes prepared with pickled pimento, manzanilla sherry, and pimento cheese. That unique riff was at home alongside raw bar favorites and starters, specifically the excellent deviled eggs topped with osetra caviar. As for main courses, they rotate seasonally, with a core set of proteins. On our visit, halibut prepared with brown butter and yuzu showcased Braxton’s skill with a fish.

The Verdict: With its Southern-inspired food and hospitality to match, Marlow East fills a neighborhood void of vibe-y spots that deliver quality. –Vicki Denig

→ Marlow East (Upper East Side) • 1022 Lexington Ave • Mon-Fri 12p-11p, Sat-Sun 11a-11p.