Spice-forward
Kidilum (Flatiron)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A roomy, tropical-feeling Flatiron restaurant that opened in February, Kidilum serves exceptional, punch-you-in-the-face South Indian cooking rooted in the bold, spice-forward flavors of Kerala’s coast.
The Vibe: The contemporary dining room with a white marble-topped bar layers warm terracotta tones and rich textures with midcentury-modern influences. Tropical foliage and dramatic, petal-like chandeliers reference South India without landing as gimmicky, while graphic wallpaper, warm woods, jewel-toned banquettes, and a glowing arched back bar lend the space a polished, urbane edge.
The Food: Chef Vinu Raveendran deploys a minimalist, rustic approach punctuated by occasional flashes of modern technique. Start with the beef pepper fry, which arrives perched on tiered wooden branches. It resembles a trio of open-faced pulled-beef sliders: shredded beef, stewed with black pepper, curry leaves, and garlic, topped with a slippery sheet of beef-stock jelly and set atop pori pathiri (a crisp, deep-fried rice cake).
Among larger dishes, there are the buttery lamb chops, glazed in black-pepper sauce, finished with salted-plum chutney, arriving in a showy presentation surrounded by cinnamon sticks and flowers — a callout to the ingredients in the lamb’s sauce. But the dish that will bring me back is the crab Nandu Curry. Blue crab meat is removed from its shell, sautéed, then neatly positioned in a rich roasted-coconut curry with a touch of floral fennel pollen. The dish is finished with two blue crab claws.
The Drinks: There’s been a swell of high-end Indian restaurants opening in New York over the last year, and nearly every one has put serious focus on its cocktail program. Kidilum’s light, elegant, floral libations — which match the kitchen’s South Indian flavors — are the best of the bunch. Beverage director Devender Kumar favors tropical and fruit-forward drinks that are never cloyingly sweet. The house gin martini is brightened with a dash of subtly tropical raw mango brine, while the Khopra veers further into the vacation drinks catalog with rum, pineapple, coconut, jasmine, and curry leaves adding a spiced, savory edge.
My favorite was the Podi, a liquid interpretation of the popular South Indian condiment and dry spice mix known as “gunpowder” for its fiery blend of dried red chiles, roasted lentils, sesame seeds, and spices. The drink references the condiment’s best qualities, yielding a compelling and complex gin-based tipple layered with fenugreek seed, fenugreek leaf cordial, shio koji, and savory tomato water. In place of lemon or lime, Kumar brightens his drinks — including this one — with a citric acid solution.
The Verdict: In a standout year for contemporary Indian dining in NYC, Kidilum has raised the bar. –Kat Odell
→ Kidilum (Flatiron) • 31 W 21st St • Tue-Sun 5-930p • Reserve.