The best neighbor
Borgo (Nomad)
RESTAURANTS • First Person
Hyper-contemporary but timeless? Casually upscale? Precise and balletic but flush with the warm, curative, unbuttoned felicities of great hospitality? A neighborhood restaurant, but: transcendent?
Andrew Tarlow’s been trying to thread these juxtapositions — especially that last one — since debuting Diner 26 years ago, and after …
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