Theodorable
Theodora (Fort Greene)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Dry-aged seafood — charred over open fire — is the star of two-month-old Theodora in Fort Greene, chef Tomer Blechman’s excellent follow-up to his nearby hit (and FOUND subscriber favorite) Miss Ada.
The Vibe: The earth-toned 76-seat restaurant is long, somewhat narrow, and reminiscent of the smooth, cave-like structures found in beachy boho destinations like Santorini and Tulum. Two lengthy counters dominate the entrance: a cocktail bar and a central dining bar that peers into a compact open kitchen. Toward the back is a dining room that feels larger than it is, thanks to an 18-foot-tall ceiling and skylights flooding the room with natural light.
The Food: Blechman’s cooking is bright and fresh, sometimes flecked with toasted nuts, other times accented with salmoriglio, the Southern Italian lemon and oregano condiment. To concentrate flavor and enhance umami, he dry-ages all seafood in a humidity-controlled fridge for three to seven days, utilizing a technique also popular with sushi prep. It’s not straight up Mediterranean, either. A pineapple pico de gallo decorates three crimson, charred prawns, and a double dose of Thai curry is woven into the falafel (and served alongside it).
There’s a fantastic collection of house-baked breads, from pillowy pitas to flaky za’atar-filled savory rolls. Save some of either for swiping through the dill-flavored schug — the neon green hot sauce found in Middle Eastern cuisines — that accents the raw Ora King Salmon belly with (as of this moment) grilled ramps. And don’t overlook the sweet potato. It comes blackened to a crisp, splayed open and arranged with crème fraîche, slivered almonds, and a dusting of paprika. It doesn’t look like much on a plate, but the sweet, smoky, creamy crunch is a memorable one.
The Verdict: Casual and approachable, Theodora could easily get lost amongst Fort Greene’s family-friendly dining cohort. But the cooking stands out — and is well worth traveling for. –Kat Odell
→ Theodora (Fort Greene) • 7 Greene Ave • Reserve • Photo: Brian Ferry.