Welcome back to Kodawari, in which we profile sushi counters practicing that very art — the uncompromising, relentless pursuit of perfection.
The Skinny: Despite its somewhat remote location in the Japanese city of Kanazawa, Sushidokoro Mekumi is the kind of elite destination counter to which dining enthusiasts from around the world trek. Its nonconformist chef Takayoshi Yamaguchi is known for his obsessive approach to sourcing fish. He studies how a fish’s diet affects the fatty acids in its flesh, which he uses to determine how long an ingredient should rest for peak deliciousness.
This fall, Yamaguchi brings his unique approach to Hudson Square, where he’ll launch a 16-course omakase, expected to be priced around $400 per person. Last month, FOUND attended an early preview meal. Here’s our report: